I joined television teams from Viet Nam Television and the US Public Broadcasting System for Tet together in Ho Chi Minh City/Sai Gon.

I also joined Tet in Pulau Bidong, the largest camp in Malaysia for “boat people”. Sensing the Enemy describes the life (and culture) the Vietnamese boat people created after they landed on Bidong, a formerly uninhabited island. The boat people had arrived empty-handed, but they brought Vietnamese Tet in their souls.

What have I learned from these Tets?

To enjoy Tet and to escape Tet.

Tet suits extroverts – those who like festivities, parties, and social flurry. As Viet Nam’s largest holiday, Tet is like Christmas, Hanukkah, Western New Year, American Thanksgiving, and everyone’s birthday. For introverts – those prefer small gatherings and solitude – the celebrating can become excessive.

The festivities begin two weeks before Tet with office parties and family preparations (caring for ancestors’ graves, paying debts, cleaning houses, washing vehicles, tending gardens, and arranging family altars). There follows a week of non-stop feasting and then village festivals during the three months of lunar spring.

I love the bustle before Tet (although I’m distressed by the ever-increasing “bustle of bribes”, the “envelopisation” driving the Vietnamese economy ever closer to that of Greece).

In the US, we fill our December holiday season with office parties, whereas the Vietnamese events include partners and retirees, creating a community focus. I treasure this chance to greet friends and acquaintances I seldom see.

I love our small office party held early in the pre-Tet season. Everything is home-cooked, and we haven’t yet become over-sated with nem [spring roll] and banh chung [sticky rice square cake]. I love this intimate mix of friends and colleagues. This lunar spring, Tet’s intimacy will continue with a water-puppet performance at a colleague’s home village, Dong Cac Village in northern province of Thai Binh’s Dong Hung District, one of the sites where this Vietnamese art originated.

I also like the pre-Tet custom of cleaning. I addressed my chaos of books. (Hurrah! Several lost treasures found!!) And I took my bicycle to a neighbour, who replaced both tires, adjusted the brakes, and scrubbed the fenders. I paid my debts. For me, these were mighty because I do not believe in carrying debt. But I had lost my wallet.

“Lucky your bad luck came in the old year!” Vietnamese friends said, lending me money.

“Lucky,” I said, “to have my passport and close Vietnamese friends!”

“Lucky,” I can add, “to have American friends help with re-issuing bank cards in time for debt payments.”

Each year, I add my own way of tending ancestors.

Ruth Cadwallader (1918-2009) connected Vietnamese and American women during the “hard times”. She and I visited Viet Nam in 1983, when Viet Nam suffered from floods, a dysfunctional economic system and a stringent US-led embargo. Ruth particularly liked the ceramic elephants we saw at Bat Trang.

Outside our office door, two white ceramic elephants support decorative stands of bamboo. Tet Eve Day, I tended bamboo. I’d planned to bathe the elephants as I do each year, but I ran out of time. At midnight, I placed lit incense among the bamboo stands astride their elephants. As the pungent smoke rose, I welcomed Ruth Cadwallader’s spirit back to Viet Nam.

Early the next morning, the first day of Tet, I left for the airport.

But why leave?

The Vietnamese say an Tet – eat Tet. Years ago, when famine haunted Viet Nam, custom dictated that everyone must be sated the first three days of Tet. But now, the feasting is relentless. I can’t eat six feasts a day, and I can’t manage the conflict between my American upbringing and Vietnamese hosting.

We Americans with Depression-era parents learned to eat everything we were served. My parents drilled the “clean-plate club” into my psyche. But by custom, Vietnamese hosts must never allow a guest’s bowl to stand empty. Our Vietnamese friends say again and again, “Eat! Eat! Don’t talk. Eat!!” My system can’t handle so much eating. My American male friends who have lived in Viet Nam for years also leave. Their systems can’t handle so much drinking.

So, I’m in Kuala Lumpur. An introvert, I’ve relished bookish solitude. I’ve thought about how I’ll visit the friends in Ha Noi I didn’t see before Tet and enjoy water puppets at Dong Cac Village in their natural venue. I will trim any yellowing leaves on the bamboo astride their elephants.

And I will light incense again for Ruth Cadwallader.

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To welcome the Year of the Dragon, a number of objects are on show featuring the mythical creature from the Ly-Tran dynasties (11th-14th century), the Le dynasty (15-18th centuries) and the Nguyen dynasty (18th century to 1945).

The exhibits, including candlesticks, vases, basins and chests, are made from a variety of materials, such as bronze, ceramics, pottery and jade.

History lovers have the opportunity to admire Chu Dau ceramics (15th century) and rare objects dating back to the Champa culture (17th-18th century), such as cupboards and bronze Buddhas, lacquered in red and trimmed with gold.

Art lovers can also enjoy paintings, on public display for the first time, from famous painters including Le Cong Nhan, Duong Bich Lien, Bui Xuan Phai, Cong Van Chung and George Khanh.

This is the third time an exhibition of its kind has been organised in Ha Noi by the Lovers of Ancient Objects Club to welcome the new year, and according to Nguyen Truong, club chairman, this is the largest.

“This year, the artefacts on display are more diverse and have the greatest aesthetic value,” said Truong, who has several objects dating back to the Dong Son culture (1st century – 10th century).

“I hope the exhibition can help the public learn more about the work and the creative skills of our ancestors and build their respect for our country’s cultural heritage.”

“Antique collecting is a cultural tradition of our country and should be developed. We should respect the enthusiasm of the collectors. The exhibition is an excellent occasion for the public to learn more about the country’s cultural value,” said historian Duong Trung Quoc at the opening ceremony.

“I am happy to learn more about the dragon and the history of our country. It is my favourite animal and holds a sacred place in Vietnamese culture. The dragon is also a good omen for an abundant harvest,” said Le Mai Anh, a visitor at the show.

Exhibits belonging to 35 collectors are on display until February 18 at the Exhibition House, 93 Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Ha Noi.

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The number of international tourists in Ha Noi during Tet soared by 16 per cent against the same period last year to some 183,000, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism reported yesterday, Jan 31.

The department also forecast a steep rise in the number of visitors from China, Japan, France, Australia, South Korea and some Southeast Asian countries during the first quarter of 2012.

A 14 per cent increase, meanwhile, was recorded in the number of locals travelling abroad through local travel companies during the country’s biggest holiday.

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Photo: SGGP

None of the cases were fatal, he said. One case of meningococcal disease was in Ha Noi and the other two were in HCM City, with all three patients in stable conditions, he added. 

The meningococcal patient in Ha Noi was a three-month-old girl from Me Linh District who was taken to the National Paediatrics Hospital on January 16 with a high temperature, vomiting and diarrhoea. She is currently under supervision at the hospital in a stable condition.

The National Institute of Hygiene and Epidemiology joined hands with the Ha Noi Department of Preventive Medicine to sterilise the areas around the patient’s house and instructed those who had come into contact with the patient. No further outbreak has been detected.

Two meningococcal patients in HCM City, aged two and six, were also tested positive with the meningococcal bacteria.

About 650 meningitis cases have been reported per year over the last 10 years, with most of the patients in northern provinces, said the director of the Ha Noi Department of Preventive Medicine, Nguyen Van Binh. Last year, 305 cases were reported, resulting in four fatalities, he said, adding that the disease often occurred in spring when the weather was humid and the bacteria could spread quickly.

The disease can cause brain injury, causing patients lose their hearing and suffer from septicaemia, said Binh.

Meanwhile, the northern city of Hai Phong has reported 48 cases of hand-foot-mouth patients since January 21, followed by Ha Noi with five. The remaining 19 cases were in southern cities and provinces.

During the recently-conluded Tet (lunar new year) holiday, 146,260 were admitted to hospitals nationwide, according to figures from municipal and provincial departments of health. Over 22,600 of these were hospitalised for injuries suffered in traffic accidents.

No major food poisoning outbreaks affecting more than two victims have been reported this month, according to the Ministry of Health.

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The pagoda is a vast complex of Buddhist temples and shrines built into the Huong Tich limestone mountains in Huong Son Commune, My Duc District, about 60 kilometres from central Ha Noi. The site is most crowded during the Huong Pagoda festival, which takes place during the first 3 months of the Lunar New Year beginning from the sixth day of the Lunar New Year (January 28). 

From January 24 (the second day of Lunar New Year), the Ha Noi Police have mobilised more than 150 officials from the local and regional Police departments to maintain security at the site.

Police officials will patrol 17 main areas 24 hours a day in the Huong Pagoda site to prevent crime and ensure safety for pilgrims.

According to Lieutenant-Colonel Nguyen Ngoc Dan, head of the police group in charge of the Thien Tru Pagoda, the use of radios or speakers for advertising, karaoke singing and serving meat made from wild animals will be prohibited within the pagoda area.

Meanwhile, a broadcasting speaker system will be set up by the festival’s organisers to remind the pilgrims to keep the area clean, beware of theft and vendors with over-priced goods.

Dan added that the environment in the Huong Pagoda had been greatly improved after the Yen stream had been cleaned and reminder signs had been set up in visible spots.

Nguyen Huong Tra, a resident from Dong Da District who visited Huong Pagoda on the third day of the Lunar New Year said the security there was quite good, and she didn’t witness any incidents.

Tra pointed out, however, that the common case of stall holders forcing high prices on customers was still rampant.

The Huong Pagoda festival is the biggest and longest annual festival in Viet Nam and lasts three spring months, welcoming more than 1 million pilgrims and tourists each year.

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Restaurant staff park customers’ motobikes on Kim Nguu Street, Hai Ba Trung District, Ha Noi. (Photo: VNS)

Transerco, a State-owned enterprise, will take over management duties from people’s committees in the districts of Ba Dinh, Hoan Kiem, Dong Da, Tay Ho and Hai Ba Trung. It will also look into pavement parking in these districts and handled the worst offenders. 

Transerco said it would only grant licences for car parks far from busy main and belt roads or roads with a width of no more than 6.5 metres.

The enterprise will conduct weekly inspections and report to the city authority every three months.

The model will be applied to the whole city if successful.

The city authority handed over the rains to Transerco because of continual encroachment on pavements, overcharging, and increasing traffic congestion in the city.

Cao Thang, deputy head of the Ha Noi Police Office, told online newspaper Vnexpress.net authorities in many districts had failed to punish those responsible for unlicensed car parks.

He also said there were too many pavement violations, adding that on Hoang Dao Thuy Street, illegal parking took up nearly 1,500 sqm of road space and nearly 2,000 sq m of the pavement area.

Thang said the authorities in some wards even signed contracts with individuals or private firms to open illegal car parks.

Nguyen Quoc Hung, director of the city Department of Transport, said it was time to tighten control of car parks in the city.

Together with Transerco, the police would clamp down on illegal parking, he said.

According to the Ha Noi Police, there are more than 1,000 car parks in the city centre, of which 400 operate illegally. After a five-month-inspection from July to November, Ha Noi police and the municipal Department of Transport inspected 270 car parks and imposed fines worth VND4.8 billion ($230,400).

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Keyed up: Pianist Nguyen Anh 9 has composed about 30 songs mostly about broken love. — File Photo

The concert will be the first held by the HCM-based pianist in the capital and will feature singers from around the nation. 

The veteran pianist, whose full name is Nguyen Dinh Anh, was born in Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan Province, in 1940.

He developed an interest in the piano at an early age. He dreamed about the piano when his father bought one for his brother and sister.

To fulfil his dream of becoming a professional pianist, Anh was forced to leave home. A decade later, that boy became pianist Nguyen Anh 9.

His pen-name Nguyen Anh 9 followed a number of significant events occurring on the ninth – including his wedding day and writing his first song, Khong (No), in September, the ninth month.

During a half-century career, he has composed about 30 songs and compiled one album. The tunes are semi-classic, swing, cha-cha-cha or Boston.

All Anh’s songs are about broken love, most composed to the memory of his former girlfriend.

One of his favourite compositions is Co Don (Aloneness).

“The song is typical of my music,” he said. “It was also inspired by Chopin.”

The musician says his work aims to celebrate the value of love.

“If one day on the street I see a lovelorn person who sings my favourite song Buon Oi Chao Mi (Goodbye My Sadness), I am very happy because my music can speak to others, share their feelings and help them overcome the pain of love,” he said.

In 2000, the veteran pianist gave up playing when electronic instruments became the rage. “I was seriously stressed and didn’t want to play piano any more,” he said.

He thanks singer Anh Tuyet who convinced him to perform on her show in Ha Noi. After the performance, Anh 9 returned to the stage.

“I know I was wrong and I feel guilty. Music is all my life. Hanoians inspired me again,” he said.

The composer, who also writes film music, plays his piano at his Tieng Duong Cam Cafe in HCM City every night.

On Thursday, romantic songs will be performed by known singers and a nine-member orchestra with nine violinists.

The pianist will play piano duo with his son, composer Nguyen Quang and Ha Noi-based singer-pianist Thuy Dung.

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Life in mono: The black-and-white photo Three Little Mong Girls by Tran Thiet Dung won a gold medal.

The contest was launched in May by the Viet Nam Association of Photographic Artists (VAPA), under the sponsorship of the International Federation of Photographic Art. 

There were 10,500 entries by 1,600 photographers from 55 countries including Germany, Hungary, Myanmar, Turkey, Slovenia, France, Australia, Spain, the US and the UK – a record number for a photo competition in Viet Nam, The competition was sponsored by NIKON.

“The entries are varied in topics, which reflects fairly well the life in many countries in the world,” said Vu Quoc Khanh, chairman of VAPA and head of the judging board.

“As the host, Viet Nam has the most number of entries and winners, which means that the contest has drawn most interest from Vietnamese photographers.”

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Entitled Nhung Chuyen Di (The Journeys), the show is a story of the milestones in his career over the past eight years since Duong shot to fame in the beginning of 2004 after winning the singing contest Sao Mai Diem Hen (Morning Star – Rendezvous). After that, he quickly became one of the country’s top singers.

“The journey to every corner of the country as well as to different foreign countries brought me many chances to meet other people who shared my opinions on music. Thus, through my encounters I formed partnerships for different music projects,” the singer said as he explained the name of his live show.

Songs by composers Tran Tien, Le Minh Son, and Do Bao, whose pieces helped Duong deepen his reputation, will once again be presented at The Journeys.

The singer will also perform songs by Luu Ha An and Sa Huynh from his 2010 album Li Ti (Tiny) that brought him the title Album of the Year in the beginning of this year.

Young singer/composer Le Cat Trong Ly will be a special guest during the performance and will sing a duet with Duong on some of her pieces. Duong earlier paired up with Ly to perform in the debut show of the monthly VTV music programme Music Space in April.

Contemporary pianist Pho An My will share the stage with Duong to accompany him in some acts, which is expected to be an impressive performance.

A graduate of the National Academy of Music, the singer is experienced in different types of music, including jazz, folk, and pop.

The Journeys will take place at the Ha Noi Opera House at 8pm on Friday and Saturday.

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The Ha Noi Department of Transport proposes to ban all vehicles in 10 streets in the central city from early next year, the department director, Nguyen Quoc Hung, said on Tuesday.

The streets are Hang Dao, Hang Ngang, Hang Duong, Dong Xuan, Le Lai, Le Thach, Le Thai To, Dinh Tien Hoang, Hang Khay and Trang Tien in Hoan Kiem District.

The streets would open for pedestrians from January 1 from 6am on Saturday to 10pm on Sunday. The same schedule would apply on national holidays.

The project was expected to help preserve the capital’s culture and boost tourism and trade.

According to the department’s survey on affected local residents in these streets, 925 households would be affected by the project, of which 71 per cent supported the project.

The survey also found that residents in 10 walking streets owned more than 1,500 vehicles, mostly motorbikes. They usually kept their vehicles at home or in parking lots nearby.

A map of 10 streets in Hoan Kiem District that are to be closed to vehicles. — VNS File Photo

Deputy director of the department Nguyen Xuan Tan said the project would require 14 parking lots with an area of 5,670sq m for resident parking. These lots would be located within 500m of their houses.

The parking lots would also be used for public vehicles. Neighbouring streets would also be used as parking places on holidays.

Pham Minh Hang, resident in Dong Xuan Street said it was a nice idea to create pedestrian areas where she and other residents could escape from the noise pollution and gas emissions for a while.

“I think the authorities should also arrange parking lots efficiently to avoid disrupting residents’ trading activities,” she said.

Hang Ngang, Hang Dao, Dong Xuan and Hang Giay streets were already closed to traffic on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 6pm to 11pm.

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